October 5, 2026
The issue of October 5, 2026
Every question from this issue, with the answers, the hints and the reading behind them.
Play the October 5, 2026 issue
House: AVAVAV · Designer: Beate Karlsson · Season: Fall/Winter 2023 - Fake It Till You Break It
For Fall/Winter 2023, AVAVAV creative director Beate Karlsson asked herself one question: "What's the most embarrassing thing that can happen to a fashion house?" Her answer was a show where the clothes failed in front of everyone. Under the title "Fake It Till You Break It," models walked the Milan runway as their outfits fell apart: heels snapped mid-stride, bags broke open, visors fell off caps, trousers came unpinned and sleeves and dresses were pulled off their bodies. The garments themselves mixed oversized tracksuits, huge hoodies and streetwear outerwear with pinstriped dresses and cut-outs. The finale went furthest: as Karlsson stepped out for her bow, the step-and-repeat backdrop behind her collapsed. "I've been asking myself; why is luxury so serious? Is it because we strive to be perfect?" she said, pairing the show with questions like "Could bad quality still be luxurious?"
This brand, like Doublet (another brand I love!), plays into fashion's humor and absurdity. Fashion shows are supposed to be these highly coordinated events that take place in rooms of humorless people whose pretension is only exceeded by their narcissism. Shows like this cut through that and present a version of fashion that is closer to reality, as a chaotic mess of events and creativity that is a single stray thread away from falling apart. And when that facade comes crashing down, how wonderful!
Sources: Hypebeast · Hunger Magazine · Office Magazine · Fucking Young · PAPER · Jezebel
Answer: 1999
I had a pair of these as a kid. I think my mom bought them, and I outgrew them so quickly that most of the time they were a size too small, so they were arguably the least comfortable shoes I've ever worn. Still loved them tho :)
Heelys were invented by Roger Adams, a clinical psychologist who grew up in his parents' roller skating rink in Tacoma, Washington. On a 1998 vacation in Huntington Beach, in the middle of what he described as a midlife crisis, he watched kids on inline skates and pictured a shoe that could roll whenever you shifted your weight. He built his first prototype in a friend's garage by cutting into Nike sneakers and fitting them with skateboard wheel bearings. His first patent filing for the design dates to April 1, 1999. He launched the company in 2000, and at its first trade show, the first retailer sold out within hours. Priced between $50 and $100, Heelys sold more than 1.25 million pairs in its first year, reached more than 30 countries within three years, and got celebrity fans like Usher. They also drew criticism from doctors and safety groups over injuries in school hallways and elsewhere. Adams eventually sold his shares and left the company, and he died in March 2026 at age 71. What a legend!
Sources: Google Patents · NBC News · Newser · SkateHut
Answer: It was named after a U.S. nuclear test site., It debuted at a swimming pool in Paris., The first woman to wear it was a nightclub dancer.
On July 5, 1946, French engineer Louis Réard unveiled his new two-piece swimsuit at the Piscine Molitor, a fashionable swimming pool in Paris. He named it the "bikini" after Bikini Atoll in the Marshall Islands, where the U.S. military had tested an atomic bomb just four days earlier, because he hoped his design would be just as explosive. It was tiny: a bra top and two inverted triangles of fabric joined by string, made from about 30 inches of material and small enough to fit inside a matchbox. No professional model would wear it, so Réard hired Micheline Bernardini, an 18-year-old dancer at the Casino de Paris. The suit was printed with newspaper type, a nod to the headlines Réard expected it to make, and Bernardini reportedly received around 50,000 fan letters afterward. A rival designer, Jacques Heim, had launched a two-piece called the "Atome" and advertised it as "the world's smallest bathing suit," but Réard's was even smaller. The reaction was intense: the bikini was banned in countries including Spain, Italy, Belgium, and Australia, and the Vatican declared it sinful. It didn't catch on widely in America until the 1960s, helped along by films like Dr. No in 1962.
Sources: The Vintage Traveler · History · TIME · Museum of the Albemarle
Answer: Rivets
Workers in the American West, from miners to ranchers to railroad crews, kept ripping their work pants at the pockets and seams. Jacob Davis, a tailor from Riga, Latvia, working in Reno, Nevada, who also made tents and wagon covers, came up with a fix: hammer copper rivets into the stress points, like the corners of the pockets and the base of the button fly. He didn't have the money to patent the idea himself, so he wrote to his fabric supplier, the San Francisco dry-goods merchant Levi Strauss, and proposed a partnership. On May 20, 1873, the two received U.S. Patent No. 139,121 for "an Improvement in Fastening Pocket Openings," the date now celebrated as the birthday of blue jeans. The pants were first known simply as "XX," then as "waist overalls," and in 1890 they became the 501 when Levi's introduced lot numbers. Davis stayed on as a factory manager at Levi Strauss & Co. for the rest of his career, and the rivets they patented are still on almost every pair of jeans made today.
Sources: The Industry · Levi · Levi · History
AND THAT'S THE BOTTOM LINE, BECAUSE Stone Cold Steve Austin's leather vest SAID SO!