September 30, 2026
The issue of September 30, 2026
Every question from this issue, with the answers, the hints and the reading behind them.
Play the September 30, 2026 issue
House: John Galliano · Designer: John Galliano · Season: Spring/Summer 2008
For Spring 2008, Galliano built his runway narrative around Grey Gardens, the 1975 Maysles brothers documentary about "Big Edie" and "Little Edie" Beale, the reclusive, cat-obsessed aunt and cousin of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis, who lived in genteel decay inside their crumbling East Hampton mansion. Per Vogue's Sarah Mower, the collection moved from twenties-style baby-star tiered dresses, picture hats, and flounced jackets into "demented Little Edie head-swathed cardigan looks," finished with a fur-sprouting "chubby" jacket nodding to the cats that overran the real Beale house. Mower was lukewarm on the concept itself, calling Grey Gardens as a fashion reference "one of the most hackneyed" of the era, even while praising Galliano's bias-cut and chiffon technique. Contemporary viewers on fashion forums read the collection differently in the moment though; several, watching it live in October 2007, described it simply as "a carnival" for its color and flounce, before the Grey Gardens framing became the dominant retrospective read.
I thought this collection was something straight out of American Horror Story, or even Goosebumps! Between the clumsy music and the oppressive spots of red light, I thought it was delightfully unsettling at times. My reading perhaps isn't too far off from the source material; two women isolated with dozens of cats (I love cats) in a decaying mansion (we are in the midst of a housing crisis), alienated from the world (not the worst thing, all things considered), is exactly the kind of gothic Americana that Galliano's thrives in, even if in this case the execution leaned toward vintage glamour rather than horror.
Sources: Vogue. · The Fashion Spot
Answer: Diane von Furstenberg
Diane von Furstenberg introduced the iconic jersey wrap dress in 1974. Originally inspired by ballerina tops, her true "eureka" moment occurred after seeing Julie Nixon Eisenhower on television wearing a DVF wrap blouse paired with a skirt. This prompted the designer to merge the two pieces into a single, seamless garment.
Crafted from stretchy, wrinkle-resistant jersey knit, the dress modernized the American sportswear tradition. It was incredibly versatile and flattering, allowing women to easily transition from the corporate office during the day to glamorous events at night. Arriving at the height of the 1970s women's liberation movement, the dress became a powerful symbol of independence and practical elegance for the modern working woman.
The design was a massive commercial phenomenon. Within just a couple of years, she had sold over a million dresses. The overwhelming success landed her on the cover of Newsweek in 1976, which famously declared her the most marketable woman in fashion since Coco Chanel.
Sources: Town and Country Magazine · CBS News · The MET · The Guardian
Answer: Alber Elbaz (1998–2000) → Tom Ford (2000–2004) → Stefano Pilati (2004–2012) → Hedi Slimane (2012–2016) → Anthony Vaccarello (2016–2026)
Tracing the lineage of Yves Saint Laurent and its Creative Directors is an exercise in corporate intrigue, controversial rebrands, and, of course, beautiful collections. and. It began when Yves himself handpicked Alber Elbaz to succeed him on ready-to-wear in 1998, only for Elbaz to be ousted after just a few seasons once the Gucci Group acquired the house and installed its own heir to the throne, Tom Ford, in 2000. When Ford exited in 2004, Stefano Pilati took over, softening the house's harder edges for nearly a decade before Hedi Slimane arrived in 2012 and made the era-defining, controversial decision to drop "Yves" from the ready-to-wear branding entirely, rebranding the line simply as Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello took the reins in 2016, and yesterday, September 29, 2026, he marked exactly ten years at the house with a Spring/Summer 2027 show staged outdoors at the Trocadero fountain, the Eiffel Tower glittering gold in the background to match a collection of gold-embroidered dresses, brocade skirts, and gold trench coats. Charlotte Gainsbourg performed a song in a classic Saint Laurent black suit before Vaccarello himself came out to applause, smiling and waving to a front row that included Rosé of Blackpink, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Eddie Redmayne, and Rami Malek. No official word has come from the house itself, but persistent reports across the industry suggest this emotional, career-spanning show may have been his last as creative director. It was beautiful!
Sources: Fashionista · Reuters / KFGO · Puck News
Answer: Christian Dior
In August 1955, Richard Avedon traveled to Paris to photograph the couture collections for Harper's Bazaar editor-in-chief Carmel Snow. Rather than shoot in a studio, he staged the shoot at the Cirque d'Hiver, a real working circus in the 11th arrondissement. He later described the moment: "I saw the elephants under an enormous skylight and in a second I knew... there was the potential here for a kind of dream image." Model Dovima wore a sleek Dior evening gown with a flowing sash, a piece actually designed by a then-young staffer at the house named Yves Saint Laurent, years before he launched his own label. Though the elephants each had one foot chained to the floor, they remained restless and potentially dangerous throughout the shoot, and Dovima had to hold her pose as they moved behind her. Published in the September 1955 issue of Harper's Bazaar, the image is now widely regarded as one of the single most iconic fashion photographs of the 20th century.
Sources: Phillips · Amateur Photographer · Artnet
Ewing 33 Hi - Grey