Matières Fécales Fall/Winter 2026

Cream 09: Maison Martin Margiela, 2008. Cream is a Hong Kong-based fashion/culture magazine. For issue number 9, they had Maison Margiela guest-edit the edition, dedicating it to their 20th anniversary as a designer house. 267 pages were left blank, intended to be filled in by the user (kinda like the canvas in Who'Studios, sign up for that :).

Dapper Dan (Daniel Day) ran a 24-hour Harlem boutique starting in 1982, cutting up real designer bags and screen-printing his own Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Fendi fabric to make one-of-a-kind streetwear for local hustlers like Alberto "Alpo" Martinez and black celebrities like Mike Tyson. He was the tailor for the iconic aesthetics of early hip-hop, dressing some of the biggest names like Eric B. & Rakim, Salt-N-Pepa, and LL Cool J. In 1988, a street fight between two of his clients outside the shop landed his operation on the news, and the resulting attention brought lawsuits from the luxury houses whose logos he'd repurposed without permission. Fendi's litigation against him shut him down for good in 1992. He spent the next two decades out of the spotlight, before a new generation rediscovered his work online. Then in 2017, Gucci sent a jacket down the runway that was nearly identical to one he'd made back in the '80s. The backlash led to something unexpected: an official partnership with the house, and in 2018 Gucci helped him open a new atelier just blocks from his original storefront, this time with the brand's blessing instead of its lawyers.

After a tremendous year of sold-out collabs (Nike, Kendrick Lamar, USWNT, Stussy, Stella Artois) and transcendent creative directorship (Clarks), Martine Rose won the 2023 British Menswear Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Council's Fashion Awards.